Galaxidi

35 km (22 mi) southwest of Delphi, 17½ km (11 mi) southwest of Itea.

Galaxidi, a peninsula in the Bay of Itea, once knew great prosperity from shipping and shipbuilding. It's like being on an island, but easier to access. Handy to both Athens and Delphi.

Sea captains' homes with classic masonry, and an idyllic seaside location reminiscent of an island, have steadily attracted outsiders recognizing Galaxidi's potential. The heyday of the harbor town was in the 19th century, but after the invention of steamships it slipped into decline. Today the old town is classified a historical monument and undergoes continual renovation and restoration. If you are a shore person rather than a mountain person, Galaxidi is a good alternative to Delphi as a base for the region. Stroll Galaxidi's narrow streets with their elegant stone mansions and squares with geraniums and palm trees, and then take a late-afternoon swim in one of the pebbly coves around the headland to the north, dine along the waterfront, and enjoy the stunning mountain backdrop over the sea. If you walk to the far side of the sheltered harbor, Galaxidi appears, reflected in the still waters.

Peek into Ayios Nikolaos (Old town, Galaxidi, Greece.). The cathedral, named after the patron saint of sailors (Nicholas), possesses a beautiful carved 19th-century altar screen.

The little Nautical Museum has a collection of local artifacts from ships and the old sea captains' houses. Mousiou 4, Galaxidi, Greece. COST: Free. OPEN: Weekdays 9:30-1:30, weekends 9:30-2.

Where to Eat

Omilos. Relax on the shiplike deck: the Bay of Itea stretches before you, and the peaks of Parnassus tower in the distance, with the little gray-stone houses of Delphi topped with rose-slate roofs clustered on its slopes. If you want really fresh fish, watch as one of the staff casts a line and hauls in your sargos or tsipoura (respectively, bream or panfish). Have it grilled to a golden brown and lightly embellished with oil, lemon, and oregano. Sunset is a particularly attractive time here, but the place is open early morning to late at night. After your meal, swim off the pebble beach. Old Yacht Club, main harbor entrance, Galaxidi, Greece. PHONE: 22650/42111. No credit cards.

O Tassos. Locals and tourists pack the large terrace on the waterfront, the first you see as you approach from the center; they're drawn in year-round by the quality of the seafood. Farm-raised crawfish, karavidhes are simply boiled and sprinkled with lemon -- a true delicacy. Crispy fried calamari and whole fish, such as char-grilled snapper, are fresh as can be. Complete the feast with boiled greens and garlic-potato sauce, a large village salad, and a carafe of local wine. Akti Lanthis 69, at far end of harbor on waterfront, Galaxidi, Greece. PHONE: 22650/41291. V.

Porto. This popular restaurant is one of many near the harbor that, unsurprisingly, specialize in fish: porgy, common bream, sea bass, dentex (when in season), and, of course, mussels, served several ways. You could buck the trend and order the equally good meat dishes such as kotopoulo krasato (chicken stewed in wine), oven-baked lamb, or succulent lamb ribs. Akti Ianthis 53, near start of harbor, Galaxidi, Greece. PHONE: 22650/41182. No credit cards.

To Barko tis Maritsas. Inside an 1850 captains' kafeneio (coffeehouse), the waterfront restaurant is decorated with a nautical theme. Not to be missed are the pies -- zucchini with dill, and spinach -- as well as the eggplant dip enhanced by grated walnut. Fresh fish is always plentiful, but mussels are what Galaxidi is known for -- here they're served in a saganaki, steamed, and in a pilaf. Homemade sweets include the regional amigdalopasta (cake made with almonds and topped with kaimaki, rich clotted-cream-base ice cream). Akti Ianthis 34, on waterfront, Galaxidi, Greece. PHONE: 22650/41059. Reservations essential. MC, V.

O Dervenis. Look inland, to O Dervenis, for some of the best small dishes in town. It will be tough choosing an appetizer from among the homemade tzatziki, the spinach pie made with feta and kefalograviera; marinated octopus or gavros (resembles a large anchovy); minced meat wrapped in fresh vine leaves (tender enough to use only the first few weeks of summer); and a local specialty, avgopita (egg pie). Contemplate your selection in the covered garden courtyard. N. Gourgouris, next to old girls' school, Galaxidi, Greece. PHONE: 22650/41177. No credit cards.